
And when travellers are putting together their India itineraries, it’s the beauty of the Golden Triangle, the chaotic spirituality of Varanasi and the relaxed vibe of the spice-scented Malabar Coast that tend to take priority. The city formerly known as Calcutta rarely gets a look-in.
It seems strange that the capital of India from 1772 to 1911, once the jewel in the crown of the British Empire, has fallen so out of favour. But then it doesn’t have the palaces and romantic vistas of other more exotic destinations in India. And it has long been tarred with the name of the “Black Hole”- a term that actually refers to a small dungeon in the city’s Fort William.
But the reality is that the city, although of dwindling importance, is vibrant, crazy and fascinating.
We take a look at why you should consider adding this historic city to your India itinerary.

But while you won’t be bumping into either chap on the streets of Kolkata, you can visit Tagore’s family mansion, now a museum devoted to the poet. Then you can pop into one of the many art galleries or museums, or visit the bookshops of the university areas – literally stacks upon stacks of volumes sold from stalls set along the paving stones.

But there are many other ways to experience the enduring legacy of the Raj. A visit to the Park St Cemetery offers a glimpse into history with the dusty gravestones telling tales of the Calcutta of old.
Or head for one of the prestigious clubs such as the Bengal Club, where the upper echelons of society rub shoulders over a G&T, or the Tolly Club where you can indulge in a spot of golf, or the Saturday Club for badminton by day and whiskies by night. But be warned, these relics of colonial times often have a strict dress code.
Even teatime at one of the old hotels, like the luxurious Oberoi, can offer visitors a taste of the opulence of colonial times with a little modern creature comfort such as air conditioning thrown in for good measure.



Take a cruise along the water and pray for a sighting of one of the river’s resident Gangetic dolphins as you take in the crumbling edifices of the British Raj, the Howrah Bridge, the funereal burning ghats, and temples such as the Dakshineswar Kali Temple.
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